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Old 03-30-2006, 08:00 AM   #1
racingbrake
 
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Default Abnormal brake pad transfer (deposit)

Recently we received some customers expressing their concern on brake pad issues. In response we have written an article. You are welcome to describe your experience and comments.

---------------------------

It's very important that racers clearly understand the temperature range of their braking conditions and determine whether or not the pads they installed can meet that temperature requirement without the concern of pad transfer.

As a result, we duly include this notice for all prospective customers who may involve in racing to read and make sure they understand and acknowledge it before proceeding to rotor selection.


NOTICE
(TRACK RACING ONLY)


RB two-piece rotors are made from specially formulated alloys and high carbon cast ion and are proven in the race tracks that they are highly resistant to wear, warping or thermal cracking under extreme heat cycles than OE or others.

Since our disc material is different from OE or other rotor manufacturers, the same racing pads you used to know or install (typically Carbotech or Ferrado) and work well on these rotors may not function satisfactorily on our rotors. One of the most common issues is the pad deposit which is a substance emitted from the pad under high heat and transferred to the rotor surface that can cause vibration, pedal pulsation and hot spots on rotors surface resulting in thermal cracks or pre-mature brake failure.

It?s your own protection and responsibility to ensure that you use the true racing pads that used by professional racers like Hawk, Mintex, Raybestos (Porterfield), Cobalt or Pagid that can really take the heat without pad deposit concern. Nothing comes without a cost, professional racing pads prices are usually 20-30 percent more than Carbotech or Ferrado which are more popular to weekend racers.

To help you offset the cost burden for Corvette C6 applications we are offering a 20% discount on Hawk pads (street or motorsports) if ordered together with our two-piece rotors.

Please be aware that pad deposit comes from pad and stays on rotor, not originated by rotor but it can easily cause rotor to fail, which is beyond what we can guarantee.



(Click to enlarge)

We have sold thousand sets of high performance rotors (one piece, two piece and brake kit), so far we received two reports on RB rotors performance issues resulting from the pad deposit (build up):

First customer used RB one piece rotor for his front EVO and he used Ferrado 2500 pad:
http://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sho...d.php?t=155348

Second customer used RB two piece rotor for his front STi and he used Carbotech XP10 pad:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=936395

Both cases were well discussed on their forums and we did not disagree to their discussion, although we would also like to see how we can help them out, as we believe an open discussion is the best way to find out the truth. By reading the two threads you would probably agree that:

On both issues, customers used other pads than what we have endorsed which is Hawk.
We found no similar or more instances in those threads, in fact there are people complimenting on our brake performance.
Brake is a rather complicated system to optimize the performance especially for highly demanding braking requirement; unless an analysis is done similar to the one in here:
http://www.iwsti.com/forums/showthre...=30353&page=20

When there is a problem the driver tends to put the blame on ?rotors? and center the discussion around it, which not only is unfair to the rotor manufacturer but also can mislead the readers.

We have also consulted a racing pads expert dealing with NASCAR professional racing teams and his comments on brake pad deposit (build up):


Quote:
"There are several reasons that an unusual pad build up can occur on a rotor. It is important that the rotor be machined well with good parallelism, flatness, and run out. From our experience the RB rotors meet this standard and this should not be a concern. Some pad compounds are more prone to leaving build-up on rotors than the other. This especially occurs when the pad is used at temperatures outside the operating range the pad was designed for. It is important for racers to have an idea of what temperatures their brake systems are operating in at any given event and choose an appropriate pad for that temperature range."
Our two-piece rotors are machined with high precision and dynamically balanced which cannot be achieved by a brake shop. Resurfacing the rotor not only wouldn't solve the problem, as it will come back, but also the rotor precision integrity will be impaired. Turning the rotor surface is not recommended.

Always consult your racing pad suppliers and make sure the pad you choose is appropriate for your braking temperature range. If you do experience an abnormal deposit, talk to your pad suppliers for their recommendations, clean the deposit on the rotor rather than resurfacing it.

We also like to reiterate that RB two piece rotors have been made from the same racing metallurgy (different from stock material) with proven success:
http://forums.racingbrake.com/viewtopic.php?t=49
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Old 09-09-2006, 03:13 PM   #2
youngturk
 
Location: Texas
Default Question

Thank you for your article regarding abnormal pad transfer. One part of the article states the following:

"If you experience any malfunctions such as brake vibration or pulsation resulting from any pad deposit you should consult your brake pad supplier, remove the excessive build up and replace a more suitable pad rather than resurfacing the rotor. " (bold emphasis mine)

My question is: What is the proper material and method to remove pad material build-up?

Thank you!
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Old 09-12-2006, 11:28 AM   #3
racingbrake
 
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Default

Use the steel wool and brake cleaner or Brillo pad to scrub off the build up. Since this deposit was emitted from the brake pads at high temperature therefore it may not be easy to remove the deposit without heating it up, in this case you will have to heat up the rotor surface with a torch and repeat the scrubbing with coarser steel wool.







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Old 04-24-2007, 04:43 PM   #4
usa35
 
Location: St. Paul, MN
Default Additional information

Since this is a sticky thread, I thought I'd add the following experience.

I use my 05 STi (mostly stock) on the track with Pilot Sport Cups and had the stock Brembos which were subsequently upgraded with the RB 4-pot front kit. The reason for the kit change was basically cooking the front OEM Brembo calipers. A few things became clear after the switch:

* The RB 4-pot caliper isn't much of an upgrade - but the rotors are (cooler)

* The STi is essentially under-braked for significant track use (as I imagine the Evo and others are) when using any sort of track tires (e.g. Victoracers, PSC's, Advan's)

* There is very poor airflow to the front rotors on the STi, causing a host of problems (including pad transfer and worse). This can be remedied in a number of ways, all of which should probably be done for tracking an STi:
- Remove the backing plates on the front (rear stays cool enough)
- Upgrade to 2-piece rotors (and the RB calipers if you are so inclined)
- Add cooling ducts (easier said than done)

Even with the backing plates off and 2-piece rotors, there simply isn't enough airflow to the rotors. You can actually leave the backing plates on if you add airflow to the area (and possibly cut the backing plates to fit your ducts).

The airflow is the key! The pads won't matter until you get airflow under control.

A nice upgrade for the STi would actually be the 6-pot/4-pot RB upgrade AND cooling ducts to get air to the front. If you are doing to do DE or club racing events at places like MPH, Road America, Brainerd, Laguna Seca, etc., it's practically a must.

-Mark
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