RB 2 piece rotors Front and Rear for Tesla
I will post later about the rears.
Braking seems same as stock, which is a good thing. Ride is noticeably better, I have the staggered 21" wheels and they do not ride as well as the 19" wheels and this change helped.
What I did:
Two people, full RB kit, garage full of tools.
1) set suspension to max ride height, then jack mode
2) check out jack point, I used a piece of oak cut to same size to cover the jack "teeth"
3) jack the car a little, but leave on the ground to check jack position (I used a 2 ton floor jack)
4) if you find jack position will work (not hit battery), car is ready, use a breaker bar to loosen all the lugs about 1/2 turn, they can be TIGHT
5) jack up wheel just off the ground, (I did one wheel at a time so no jack stands)
6) take off wheel, put lug nuts in safe place
7) Take off caliper (two bolts behind brake disc), lines should be slack when caliper is laid on ground, if not put block under caliper so it does not hang on the brake lines, take a picture of brake line (especially clips for holding) for later reference
8) remove the old disc, one torx bolt
9) I carefully sanded most of the paint off the new rotor faces with 120 grit, this is optional but will speed up the bedding process (you can only sand one side once on the car) discs are labeled left and right
10) pop off the clip under the mount on the strut (closer to you) which frees the center of the brake line
11) place cardboard or container under the connection mounted on the wheel well (not the one on the strut which is closer to you) and take the metal line loose from the flex line. Note this is done by unscrewing the fitting below the mount, you may have to use two wrenches, one above the wheel well holder and one below. The metal line will leak. Then remove the wheel well clip to free the caliper
13) Note the orientation of the banjo, take it off the caliper and install the new line with one copper washer on each side of the banjo. Leave it snug, it needs to rotate for now. NOTE there is a fitting at the end of the tube from the banjo, leave it loose for now but don't forget it!
14) put the new flex line fitting in the wheel well holder and put the leaking steel line together with the new flex line. Using two wrenches make this tight.
15) put the clip on the line at the wheel well holding bracket
16) put the clip on the strut holding bracket
17) press the brake pads apart in the caliper so you have clearance when slipping onto the rotor, they move slowly but not that hard to push. Or pry with a wooden handle, you can damage the brake pads with metal prying.
18) replace the pads now if you want
19) bolt the caliper in place
20) starting at the wheel well check each joint, steel line to flex, wheel well bracket clip, strut holding bracket clip, flex line to banjo tube, banjo
21) put the bleeder hose on the bleeder connection, get your assistant's attention and establish communication, what words each of you will say
22) the guy in the car pushes fairly gently, guy at the wheel turns the bleeder only a little bit, guy in the car should watch for warning of low brake fluid than stop and top up before you keep bleeding until no air comes out
23) put on wheel, snug all lugs evenly, put some weight on the wheel
24) torque to 120 - 129 ft lbs
repeat other side of car
25) clear tools to the side, have driver hold down brake, look for leaks
26) take off jack mode, set regen to low (for bedding in brakes)
27) the paint makes the brakes squeal, backing you may hear some growling, be careful, you may only have regen, apply brakes hard and often so you are actually using the brakes not just regen (my paint was gone and brakes back to normal with no squealing in 30 miles of stop and go)
28) do rears or put away tools
29) clean the paint off the wheels