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Old 09-07-2012, 08:28 PM   #1
Beast
 
Default New BBK and XT970/960 pads on RX7 3rd gen

All -

Those of you on the RX7 Forum know me as The Beast from the East. I have owned a highly modified 3rd gen RX7 for 13 years and have been racing it for the last 5. It is now a dedicated track only car, gutted, caged, with a 13 BRE Cosmo motor and T04S turbo putting down 380 rwhp at 14 lbs of boost, 410 rwhp at 16 lbs, and 450 rwhp at 18 lbs. It's a lot of car, more car than driver.

I had reached the limits on how fast I could go using my stock seat and 3 point belt system, and just finished installing a new Kirkey full containment seat, 6 point Jet Pilot harness, and Sparco wheel with quick disconnect. I knew I'd be able to go faster now that I would not have to fight to hold myself in the seat, and figured the next weak link was the brakes. After looking at options and having a long talk with Warren at Racing Brake, I elected to get the RB BBK for the front and the OEM upgrade for the rear, with the new XT970 pad for the front and the XT960 pad for the back. I was a bit leary trying to get this all done the week before hitting the track, but it turned out to be a one day install without too much drama, so I was ready to hit the track and just finished a three day event at Thunderhill.

I'm going to post this in sections because I wrote this all up once and then when I tried to post it the thread got clobbered thinking I wasn't logged in.
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Old 09-07-2012, 08:48 PM   #2
Beast
 
Default First Impressions and The Install

BEFORE YOU START - If you have basic mechanical skills the install can be done in one day, but for God's sake make sure you have the right tools for the job. A good calibrated torque wrench, a micro torque wrench if you don't have hands that can tell when aluminum fittings are properly tight, and a good set of Allen head hex sockets are needed for this job along with a few sockets and extensions. This is all aluminum stuff here, and just cranking it until you can't crank anymore is not going to work, and you won't be able to get the right tightness with plain Allen hex wrenches. I purchased the Titan Allen socket system from the Toolwarehouse a year of so ago and found it usefull for this job, and if you have a motorcycle like I do, you need this kind of set to do all the basic motorcycle work as well:

http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/nsea...x+head+sockets

Don't be a dumbass and spend $4k on brakes only to screw it up 'cause you didn't have the smarts to spend $200 bucks on the right tools. That's a lesson that goes for any project, not just this one.

First Impressions - damn this shit is pretty. Pull it out of the box and marvel in its glory. Hold the parts, put them up against the old parts and take pictures. Stare at all the fancy grade 10 connectors and know this is quality inside and out.

The Install - There are generic instructions that come with the system, but they are not complete with all detais. This is not uncommon because it is hard for small companies to produce perfect documentation for a small batch run of parts for a low production run car that can be modified a lot of ways - they can't think of everything. So, use the instructions, use the Tech Tips install page for the G35 install, and these notes to help you. There are only a couple of undocumented things to look for.

As You Go - TEST FIT EVERYTHING. This is standard operating procedure for aftermarket parts. Don't start installing each piece and torque it to spec before the next piece. Loose fit it all together to make sure it all fits and makes sense. Otherwise, you'll find yourself forgetting one part, then having to take it all apart again and it will be much more difficult to do 'cause you torqued it all down. Start torquing to spec after you complete the loose fit.

1 - First item to note is that there are 4 shiny aluminum spacers/washers and the instructions don't cover what to do with them. They are for the upper and lower bolts that hold the caliper extension to the spindle. If you do not use these spacers as additional washers on the upper and lower bolts, the threaded end will protrude too far into the space occupied by the rotor and they end will rub against the inner face of the rotor. How did I find this? TEST FITTING - I loose fit it all together with just the caliper extension and the rotor and the rubbing was obvious. At first I thought I'd need to go to the hardware store for extra washers, then saw the 4 spacers in the package and the light bulb went off.

I will continue this install and my impressions of the product next week, it's late and time for me to go home....but I'll give you a preview - this product is amazing. I left Thunderhill 5 seconds faster on 4 year old tires and the biggest grin on my face.
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Old 09-10-2012, 08:16 PM   #3
Beast
 
Default See other post

Looks like the Forum split my original posting into another thread, so this thread should close, and please redirect to this thread:

http://forums.racingbrake.com/showthread.php?t=909
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