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Old 05-27-2017, 11:12 PM   #1
duke_of_alinor
 
Location: Silicon Valley
Default Tesla 2 piece rotors Front and Rear

I will post later about the rears.
Braking seems same as stock, which is a good thing. Ride is noticeably better, I have the staggered 21" wheels and they do not ride as well as the 19" wheels and this change helped.

What I did:
Two people, full RB kit, garage full of tools.

1) set suspension to max ride height, then jack mode
2) check out jack point, I used a piece of oak cut to same size to cover the jack "teeth"
3) jack the car a little, but leave on the ground to check jack position (I used a 2 ton floor jack)
4) if you find jack position will work (not hit battery), car is ready, use a breaker bar to loosen all the lugs about 1/2 turn, they can be TIGHT
5) jack up wheel just off the ground, (I did one wheel at a time so no jack stands)
6) take off wheel, put lug nuts in safe place
7) Take off caliper (two bolts behind brake disc), lines should be slack when caliper is laid on ground, if not put block under caliper so it does not hang on the brake lines, take a picture of brake line (especially clips for holding) for later reference
8) remove the old disc, one torx bolt
9) I carefully sanded most of the paint off the new rotor faces with 120 grit, this is optional but will speed up the bedding process (you can only sand one side once on the car) discs are labeled left and right
10) pop off the clip under the mount on the strut (closer to you) which frees the center of the brake line
11) place cardboard or container under the connection mounted on the wheel well (not the one on the strut which is closer to you) and take the metal line loose from the flex line. Note this is done by unscrewing the fitting below the mount, you may have to use two wrenches, one above the wheel well holder and one below. The metal line will leak. Then remove the wheel well clip to free the caliper
13) Note the orientation of the banjo, take it off the caliper and install the new line with one copper washer on each side of the banjo. Leave it snug, it needs to rotate for now. NOTE there is a fitting at the end of the tube from the banjo, leave it loose for now but don't forget it!
14) put the new flex line fitting in the wheel well holder and put the leaking steel line together with the new flex line. Using two wrenches make this tight.
15) put the clip on the line at the wheel well holding bracket
16) put the clip on the strut holding bracket
17) press the brake pads apart in the caliper so you have clearance when slipping onto the rotor, they move slowly but not that hard to push. Or pry with a wooden handle, you can damage the brake pads with metal prying.
18) replace the pads now if you want
19) bolt the caliper in place
20) starting at the wheel well check each joint, steel line to flex, wheel well bracket clip, strut holding bracket clip, flex line to banjo tube, banjo
21) put the bleeder hose on the bleeder connection, get your assistant's attention and establish communication, what words each of you will say
22) the guy in the car pushes fairly gently, guy at the wheel turns the bleeder only a little bit, guy in the car should watch for warning of low brake fluid than stop and top up before you keep bleeding until no air comes out
23) put on wheel, snug all lugs evenly, put some weight on the wheel
24) torque to 120 - 129 ft lbs
repeat other side of car
25) clear tools to the side, have driver hold down brake, look for leaks
26) take off jack mode, set regen to low (for bedding in brakes)
27) the paint makes the brakes squeal, backing you may hear some growling, be careful, you may only have regen, apply brakes hard and often so you are actually using the brakes not just regen (my paint was gone and brakes back to normal with no squealing in 30 miles of stop and go)
28) do rears or put away tools
29) clean the paint off the wheels
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Half way done.JPG (945.6 KB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg Taking off the Banjo.JPG (804.7 KB, 6 views)
File Type: jpg paint slung out on rim.JPG (858.7 KB, 5 views)
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Old 05-29-2017, 07:09 AM   #2
duke_of_alinor
 
Location: Silicon Valley
Default

First update
As shown in the photos after bedding in the paint throws out onto the inner side of the wheel. This is difficult to remove. My normal washing soap did almost nothing. I wound up using Goof Off which dissolved it nicely.

As a precaution I would wax the inside of the wheels while they are off as you install the rotors.
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Old 06-02-2017, 10:34 AM   #3
duke_of_alinor
 
Location: Silicon Valley
Default

Doing the rears today, will post how-to below.

Two more pro-hints:
The calipers have two bleed points each wheel, inner and outer. This time I did the pedal and assistant did caliper, no matter how much he bled the pedal was mushy, he did not see the inside caliper bleed behind the rotor.

RB says stock pads are fine for a street setup. I recommend leaving them in at least til the paint is gone.
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Old 06-02-2017, 12:40 PM   #4
duke_of_alinor
 
Location: Silicon Valley
Default

Rears are pretty easy as well.

1 - 7 are same as above to get wheel off with the addition of tow mode to release the parking brake
You should have suspension high, jack mode, tow mode, jacked up, brake caliper off now
8) Unbolt parking brake (two bolts) and set it on the frame, no need to disconnect anything, wire will be slack
9) remove old disc, one torx bolt, put on new, gawk at the casting for a drum emergency brake and realize why the two piece discs are so much lighter. Clean up any rust with 120 grit sandpaper, I sprayed mine with clear paint to prevent more rust.
10) Sand the disc if you want, get the right (or left) disc and install
11) Place absorbent pad under brake line
12) pull clip on wheel well line holder
13) Loosen steel brake line to flexible brake line
14) pull caliper out and note banjo orientation, the new line is similar, but less of a bend. Reinstall new line with same orientation. Like the fronts there is a fitting at the end of the banjo solid line going into the flex line.
15) Put the steel line loosely into the flex line, install the clip holding the flex line to the wheel well
16) Push on the brake pads (change now if you are not using originals) and reinstall caliper. The brake line is short and the only swivel to take out twist is on the wheel well. Also the line will hit the mud guard a little requiring some trimming with tin snips. Also note the caliper is a very tight fit as it has to squeeze between the mounting and disc. If you cannot get it in there the brake pads need to be retracted more.
17) Working from the Banjo, tighten each fitting keeping the flex line from twisting. You want smooth bends and the wheel is as low as it will ever go. Tighten the wheel well steel line to flex line last using two wrenches.
18) Install parking brake
19) bleed (see above note about two bleed points per wheel)
20) check for leaks
21) put wheel on and finish up like above (regeneration low, many hard stops, etc)

I will try to answer questions if posted, but in general this is an easy swap.

THANKS RB!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Rusty Tesla rear drum brake.JPG (554.5 KB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg both rotors.JPG (927.8 KB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg Parking Brake off.JPG (829.1 KB, 4 views)
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Old 07-21-2017, 04:35 AM   #5
racingbrake
 
racingbrake's Avatar
 
Default

Thank you for the detail installation write up.

You didn't need to sand the disc surface, those paint were used to protect the surface from rusting (use no anti-rust oil easy for handling), and will easily come off after a few stops.

See our explanation here:

Our rotor surface finish is coated with black paint by EDP (Electrophoretic Deposition Process), A process first introduced by RB on brake rotors in early 2000 which was quickly adopted and followed by other aftermarket brake rotor mfgrs.

This process adds uniform coat of anti-corrosive paint over the "Entire" casting surface including the corner/crevices of internal cooling vanes, which conventional plating can not reach.

We have recently improved this coating to cover the whole disc (including disc surface where pads are in contact), where after a few initial break-in stops the paint will disappear and leave all other area protected against rusting/corrosion.

An environmental friendly and effective corrosion protection process that we are proud to implement to our brake discs.

https://www.racingbrake.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=7112

BEFORE:




AFTER:


Innovative design w/o compromising the safety and OE integrity is what you can expect from RB brakes.

Do more research, ask questions to your prospective suppliers/mfgrs so at least you know what you are paying for, which shall help you make a better decision.
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Old 07-21-2017, 07:11 PM   #6
duke_of_alinor
 
Location: Silicon Valley
Default

Agreed, the paint CAN stay.
I recommend sanding most of it off to avoid depositing the paint on the wheel and subsequent cleaning. Like RB says, leave as much paint on as you like.

Just finished cross country loop, California to N Carolina by heading south through Texas/Mississippi and back heading north through visiting Mount Rushmore/Reno. Brakes were flawless. Seat of the pants says the suspension is better over bumps due to less unsprung weight.
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